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Arturia keylab cubase integration9/1/2023 Switching to Cubase? Simply swap in the Cubase overlay! And thanks to the KeyLab MkII's smart, efficient logic, you can now access Analog Lab sound categories directly from your controller. Working with the included Ableton Live Lite? Use the Live overlay. The DAW Commands center gives you deep control of your software via the use of DAW-specific magnetic overlays. You're going to look awesome onstage! Masterful software integration KeyLab MkII provides a streamlined workflow solution for controlling your DAW, Analog Lab, or any MIDI-compatible instrument. And in honor of the many vintage synth sounds you'll be playing with your new KeyLab MkII, Arturia gave it real wood side panels and the same gleaming aluminum wheels as the MiniBrute 2. That's why Arturia uses it for the frame of their KeyLab MkII controllers. But there's a reason most airplane fuselages are made of aluminum: it's stronger while remaining lightweight. Modern plastics are strong and lightweight. Masterful construction We'll just say it: most keyboard controllers are made of plastic - and there's nothing wrong with that. Equipped with 16 RGB backlit performance pads, nine large faders, nine rotary encoders, four CV outputs, five expression control inputs, and a killer software bundle headlined by Analog Lab, the Arturia KeyLab MkII 49 puts everything you need to create music right at your fingertips. I hope you did not use contact cleaner because that will damage the rubber contact strips.Arturia is also a top software company, Who better to decide what goes into a keyboard designed to control software? The KeyLab MkII's superb aftertouch-sensitive keybed (the same one used in Arturia’s flagship MatrixBrute) feels incredible under your fingers and responds beautifully when you're executing fast staccato lines, trills, and repetitions. This is much newer.īut either way, one has to know what one is don't freak out. Such that you will damage it irreparably.Ĩ0s stuff was easier. Plus, the modern stuff is made as hard as possible to be self-serviced by a non-experienced person. This should have been obvious when you realised you don't know what you are doing! lol. When I mentioned contact cleaning in your other post about this, I was not suggesting you should attempt it yourself! In which case you'll possibly pay as much as the thing itself to source the parts and get a proper technician to repair it. You may have scraped off the coating on the contacts. When they 'go', they go exactly as you describe: a whole octave or more at a time. If it's just the latter, you may still have that person as a friend. Either your "cleaning" of your once "friend's" contacts was too vigourous and you damaged the, uh, bits (too technical!) or you have dislodged the connector for a whole 've only got 4 octaves anyway. Good thing is that both, the 12 and 13 keys strips cost but $12. ![]() When putting them back make sure they are properly placed back where they belong. ![]() Pass over each one several time until there is no trace on eraser. Take them all out, and using a pencil eraser clean each of the contact heads. Second, remove keybed so you can get to the rubber contact strips. If that does not solve the problem go to next step. Also make sure that the connectors on the right are properly plugged in. ![]() When you invert those you end up losing some octaves. They are made to go in the right way but I have seen enough crazy shit with those. ![]() Make sure that it is firmly placed and in the correct position. You only have on ribbon going from main control PCB to the keybed. If reset does not work try flashing the firmware again. I hope you did not use contact cleaner because that will damage the rubber contact strips.īefore opening it do a factory reset and see if it solves the problem.
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